da bet7： There are pretty grounds, historic grounds, grounds that ooze atmosphere, and those that make you feel like you’re in the Colosseum. Five writers choose their favourites
da realsbet： 19-Nov-2012Galle International Stadium, GalleSambit Bal
Galle: you can watch the action while walking or driving past the ground© Getty Images
There’s a photograph in my digital album titled “Sri Lanka” that always fills me with the warmest memories. In it I am with my wife and close friends. We are on a patch of grass, sitting, sprawling, and leaning on each other. We look relaxed, cosy and happy. Looking at that photo, taken in August 2008, it would be hard to guess we are watching a game of Test cricket – and in the subcontinent at that.We were right behind the sightscreen – years of covering cricket have spoilt me to the point that the view of play from anywhere else in the ground seems a compromise. To our left was the gentle expanse of the Indian Ocean stretching into infinity, and behind us, a quaint little world inviting exploration. And we were not even inside the stadium.We had tickets, and I had a seat in the press box, with a view of the waters, but on an overcast day there is no better place to watch cricket from than the ramparts of the Galle Fort. I have seen prettier Test grounds but Galle gets my nod for the whole package.The stadium is informal and charming: it’s perhaps the only Test ground in the world where you can watch the match while driving or walking past, and though the civil war hadn’t ended when I watched the Test in 2008, the security wasn’t overwhelming. But travelling to watch sport is also a cultural experience, and Galle is enchanting all the way.The other three
Newlands, Cape Town: What can beat Table Mountain as a backdrop?
Adelaide Oval, Adelaide: The canopy rooftop, much imitated now, and the churches in the background
Trent Bridge, Nottingham: Beautiful walk along the river, and both an open and intimate ground
The drive from Colombo, winding and along the coast, is pretty. A new expressway will now take you to Galle in 90 minutes, but if you want memories and a couple of stops along the way for photographs, take the scenic route (at least one way). Stay in one of the boutique hotels inside the fort that, in a maze of lanes and bylanes, houses quaint shops, little houses and rooftop restaurants serving authentic Sri Lankan food. The nights offer the option of driving down to one of the nearby towns for dinner to the sounds of the sea.If you go to watch a Test in Galle – a Test it has to be, because shorter matches are unlikely to provide the space to experience the peripherals – you will not only find that the best seats are free, but that you are likely to come back with a longing to return. As for me, it was perhaps the only place I could have got my wife to accompany me to a Test.Sambit Bal is the editor of ESPNcricinfo
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Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association Stadium, DharamsalaHarsha Bhogle
Dharamsala: where the Himalayas watch cricket© Getty Images
So what makes for a good cricket ground? A comfortable chair, a good internet connection, a dry toilet and good coffee? Oh dear, we’ll have to start again, for you could get at best three of those at any ground. A great setting, a large enough car park, easy public transport and a spectator-friendly attitude? We’re getting somewhere, even if the shortlist is very small. Grounds that evoke awe? Grounds that are friendly? Grounds that you can take your kids to?There were three grounds I was most excited about and each disappointed me on my first experience. The MCG was vast, colossal; I felt like an ant, intimidated. I wanted to get away. Lord’s was shocking. Everybody on the staff seemed intent on being rude, almost as if they would be sacked otherwise. And Queen’s Park Oval… well, it seemed like just another ground. I have had better experiences at those grounds since. I quite enjoy the MCG, and quite grudgingly admitted to even liking Lord’s a bit the last time I was there (it was the smiles at the gate and the girls serving coffee in the media centre that did it).Increasingly, I find I am drawn towards grounds in proximity with nature. Queenstown is dramatic; Newlands is very nice too, though Table Mountain can get a touch monotonous; St Lucia is pretty; and while I haven’t been to the Bellerive Oval in Hobart for a while, it must be very difficult to make that less scenic.Indoors is the best place to be in Wellington, though, I find the idea of a large traffic island being used for Test cricket quite unique. The Kotla in Delhi is a lot better now but till very recently the best spot from which to watch a game there was at home. The Wankhede can only get better, and the Chidambaram Stadium (I still prefer to call it Chepauk) has.The next best
For the best combination of history, comfort and warmth I am going to pick: Trent Bridge in Nottingham, the Sydney Cricket Ground (probably the greatest cricket ground in the world), and the Adelaide Oval, with the river flowing lazily by and the grass banks providing quite the most brilliant setting. Somebody told me they are taking the grass banks away, and I said not even the worst villains in the Hindi movies could be so cruel. There has to be an element of the leisurely associated with great cricket grounds (oops, the SCG just lost a point, having done away with its grass banks some years ago). It just goes well with the pace of Test cricket.
But I am not going to be a consultant, merely offering options. For long my favourite grounds were the back field at the Hyderabad Public School (sadly, I visited it again), the “A” ground of Osmania University (sadly, I revisited that too), and the Lal Bahadur Shastri Stadium (I said goodbye to the old commentary box, now a hostel, with underwear put out to dry).And then a couple of years ago I flew in a small plane through the mountains to land at a quaint airfield (it wasn’t an airport, if you know what I mean), drove on roads that went up and down according to the terrain, and encountered hill people who smiled and offered local food at prices that were a pleasant shock. The ground itself had me stunned. I saw the pavilion first, a blazing red pagoda, and then I turned around and saw the mountains; not hills, mountains.The rays of the sun glistened off the snow on the peaks, and the sunset was a cinematographer’s delight. Often I found myself looking at the mountains rather than at the cricket, and more than one evening was spent in an open-air restaurant with simple tables and chairs and eager waiters.For the grandeur of its setting and the simplicity of its people, I will go with Dharamasala. Now if only they can keep away the rude, loud 4×4 gang that comes from Delhi and honks all along its lovely curving paths…Harsha Bhogle is a commentator, television presenter and writer
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St George’s Park, Port ElizabethTelford Vice
A hodgepodge of creaking stands and diabolically pokey corners© Getty Images
The biggest single chunk of St George’s Park is also the ugliest.So much so that the Duck Pond Pavilion, which lazes in a slovenly curve on the northern boundary like some obese, rust-coloured slug slowly stinking to death in the sun and salty air, is a cautionary tale against what can result when bricks and steel are stacked symmetrically with not a smidgen of creativity.Had the vast, soulless plastic bowl that is the Gabba existed in the early 1990s, when the Duck Pond Pavilion was “built”, the offending architect, one Terry Baker, should have been sent to Brisbane and told: This Is Not What We Want.But how do we know what is beautiful if we do not have an ugliness to compare it to? The rest of St George’s Park, a hodgepodge of creaking old stands and diabolically pokey corners that seems to exist only to ensure visitors unfamiliar with the ground (let no one who calls the place a stadium make it out of there alive), is its charm.The grandstand along the western boundary is a magnificence of wood and paint and the sense of community that comes with bumping knees and shoulders with your neighbours instead of pretending there is no one in the bucket seat next to you.This is where the St George’s Park brass band is in residence, parping out a well-worn repertoire of standards and occasionally shocking all and sundry with a freshly learned number that might last have been heard on radio ten years ago.The next best
University Oval, Dunedin Zen garden of a ground; nothing superfluous to requirements. And a large, treed hill brooding over everything.
The Bourda Deep, dark verandahs – which have been known to shine with the incredible whiteness of Mick Jagger’s presence – and a moat around the outside of the ground lend the place the irresistible aura of a murder scene.
The Oval The realness of red brick and wrought iron, and proof that not all Poms are yobs or snobs.
Under the grandstand, the good women of the Westering Methodist Church feed the multitude – not with loaves and fishes but with the best hamburgers and pancakes that surprisingly little money can buy. They have been doing so for decades in the name of charity, and they will do so for many more.The eastern boundary is home to a haphazard collection of stands, a grass bank, and the main scoreboard. Other than keeping spectators statistically informed, the board is an important indicator of what the captains should do at the toss. If the wind is coming off the nearby Indian Ocean and blowing over the scoreboard and across the field, insert the opposition. If it’s blowing from inland and towards the scoreboard, bat.Players, umpires, scorers and media are housed at the southern end of the ground. Stand on a particular landing between buildings and the view into the players’ enclosure is clear and frequently instructive – players are far more likely to reveal their emotions when they can’t see themselves on a television screen. So close are reporters to the action that it seems entirely possible to reach out and tap the captain on the shoulder to tell him to put in another slip.The pitch? It is often a desert, sometimes a jungle, and occasionally both – one end dry, the other green.That’s because players come to St George’s Park to be tested, not to be pandered to or protected from the real world. Cricket could do with more places like that.Telford Vice is a freelance cricket writer in South Africa
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Antigua Recreation GroundBy Chloe Saltau
The Rec: an atmosphere all its own © Getty Images
There’s nothing beautiful about the Rec, unless you like your cricket grounds buffeted by prison walls and rough around the edges. It was a place to bat, and bat, and bat – the Rec hosted both of Brian Lara’s world-record innings, 375 and 400. And yet there was something special about this tiny ground in an unpretentious part of St John’s that hasn’t existed since it stopped hosting international cricket.Australians flocked to the Rec for the carnival as much as the cricket. I shouted myself a trip to the Caribbean to celebrate graduating from cadet reporter to graded journalist in 1999. Happily, the journey coincided with Australia’s tour of the West Indies, and Antigua appealed because it was the island home of my cricketing hero, Viv Richards. I have only vague memories of the rambling interview I conducted with a very generous Viv as he sweated profusely in the press box, but he embodied the national and regional pride riding on everything that happened on that sweet batting pitch. The Rec is within walking distance of the street where Viv was raised. With its white concrete walls and ramshackle stands, it blends in with a town that’s edgier than Antigua’s reputation as an idyllic beach paradise suggests. The rum joints inside the gates did business even when there was no cricket, and the smells of jerk chicken and flying fish burgers pervaded the air.My next three
My favourite suburban ground is Holbrook Reserve, home of Brunswick Park Ladies Cricket Club in Melbourne. Tucked beneath the Tullamarine Freeway, it’s small enough that well-struck sixes can endanger cars bound for the airport. It’s also where I learnt to play cricket and how to reverse out of the car park without landing in Moonee Ponds Creek.
On a grander scale, the MCG is more than a cricket ground. It’s a meeting place (especially in the Long Room on Boxing Day), a theatre and a workplace. It was a privilege to witness Shane Warne’s 700th Test wicket from the press box, and a thrill to hide behind a concrete pillar as Sachin Tendulkar had a private net.
I love the Wanderers, in Johannesburg, because of its heady mix of intimacy and intimidation. It felt like a cauldron for the World Cup final in 2003, and the high altitude promotes a breathless atmosphere, where the ball seems to sail for miles.
The ground barely holds 10,000 people, and in ’99 it was bursting at the seams. Everyone was desperate to catch a glimpse of the genius of Lara, who had peeled off a match-winning century in the previous Test in Barbados. He saved his most devastating innings for Antigua, where every exquisite stroke made the Rec vibrate even more violently than the reggae music blasting from the Double Decker Stand.What captivated me most was the intense and sometimes delirious way the Antiguans watched the cricket. Lara’s 82-ball century wasn’t enough to stop Australia winning the Test, and when the Frank Worrell Trophy was retained, I remember an Australian flag fluttering above a haze of ganja.It’s possible the Rec has been romanticised in my memory, simply because there is nothing like it in the age of standardised modern venues. I returned almost a decade later to find the outfield overgrown and the buildings in a state of sad disrepair as a game of intra-island soccer unfolded. Sir Vivian Richards Stadium, the soulless stadium built for the 2007 World Cup, is an abomination, shunned by locals because it’s so far out of town and disliked by the man it’s named after. I’ll never understand why the Rec could not, instead, have been lovingly restored to its former glory. Chloe Saltau is the chief cricket writer at the